LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



e^upSv-V. Qmm¥ ilo.ia.T 
Shells. .:A^n^ 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



PRACTICAL GUIDE 

TO 

WHIST 

BY THE LATEST SCIENTIFIC METHODS 

WITH THE LAWS OF THE GAME 



BY 
FISHER AMES 




NEW YORK 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 

1891 



GvY\2.7- 



Copyright, 1890, bt 
CHARLES SCRIBNERS SONS. 



Press of J. J. Little & Co., 
Aster Place, New York. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

I. — INTRODUCTORY . .... 1 

II. — FORMATION OF TABLE, THE SCORE, AR- 
RANGEMENT OF HAND, ETC. . . . 4 ' 

The Score 4 

Arrangement of Hand, etc. ... 5 

III. — THE SUIT TO LEAD . . . . .7 

Original Leads from Strong Suits . . 7 

Original Leads from Weak Suits . . 9 

Second and Later Leads . . . .11 

Return Leads 13 

IV. — THE CARD TO LEAD 15 

Original Leads from Strong Suits . , 15 
High Card Leads from Strong Suits . 16 

Special Leads in Trumps . . . .20 



IV 



Contents. 



Original Leads from Weak Suits 
Second Leads from Strong Suits 
Leads from Strong Suits in Detail 
Leads from Weak Suits in Detail 
Leads in Partner's Suit 
Special Leads .... 



V. — ^SECOND HAND 



Second Hand on High Cards Led 
Second Hand on a Low Card Led 
Second Hand Renouncing 
Table of Second Hand Play 

VI. — THIRD HAND .... 

Play op Third Hand Renouncing 



page 

. 20 

. 22 

. 24 

. 27 

. 28 

. 31 



33 
35 
38 
40 

42 
46 



VII. — GETTING RID OF CONTROL AND UNBLOCK- 
ING 48 



VIII. — FOURTH HAND 51 

IX. — THE PLAY OF SEQUENCES. DRAWING 



INFERENCES, ETC. 
The Play of Sequences 



53 
53 



Contents. 



PAGE 

Drawing Inferences ..... 54 
Table of Leads and Inferences . .54 



X. — THE DISCARD 58 

XI. — THE MANAGEMENT OF TRUMPS . . 61 

The Trump Signal and Echo . . .61 
Other Trump Plays 63 

XII. — IN GENERAL . . . , . .67 

THE LAWS OF WHIST 71 

The Rubber 71 

Scoring 71 

Cutting 73 

Formation of Table . . . . .73 
Cutting Cards of Equal Value . . .74 

Cutting Out 74 

Entry and Ee-entry 75 

Shuffling 76 

The Deal 76 

A New Deal 77 



vi Contents. 



PAGE 

A Misdeal 78 

The Trump Card .80 

Cards Liable to be Called . . .81 

Cards Played in Error, or not Played to a 

Trick 84 

The Revoke 85 

Calling for New Cards . . . .88 
General Rules 88 

ETIQUETTE OF WHIST 90 

Dummy 91 

Double Dummy 92 



A PRACTICAL GUIDE 

TO 

WHIST. 



Introductory. 



The theory of modern scientific whist and the 
arguments upon which it is based are now so gen- 
erally and well known and understood that no re- 
statement of them is deemed necessary here. 

It is assumed that our readers are aware of the 
importance and advantage of the lead from the long 
suit, the best use of trumps for its establishment and 
bringing in, and the combination of partners' hands 
by the giving of accurate information by correct 
play. 

The object of this book is to give the rules and 
directions for play in the various contingencies of a 
hand, according to the best authorities, arranged in 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



a convenient form for instruction and guidance. 
For this purpose all the authorities have been con- 
sulted and all valuable improvements of the ^* Amer- 
ican Leads " system adopted. 

The term ''American Leads " was given to the sys- 
tem by " Cavendish," out of compliment to Mr. N. B. 
Trist, of New Orleans, by whom it was originated. 
It has recently been greatly developed and improved 
by Trist, "Cavendish," and others into a complete, 
simple, and harmonious system, which has entirely 
revolutionized the game. Being founded on true 
whist principles, and clearly an advance on the old 
method, it is sure to commend itself to all thought- 
ful players and students of the game. Conventional 
plays which are founded on correct principles, as 
these arc, instead of making the game mechanical as 
some are disposed to think, really furnish better and 
fuller equipment and opportunities for the exercise 
of skill and judgment. The better partners are 
informed of the contents of each other's hands, the 
more complete and advantageous the combination ; 
and tlie new system gives much fuller and clearer 
information both as to the number and the character 
of the suit led from than the old. It also, to a con- 
siderable extent, does away with differences in leads 
between trumps and plain suits, which never seemed 
to be based on any very good reasons, and is, in 
general, more simple and reducible to rules. 

The plan adopted is to arrange the subject into its 



Introductory. 3 

natural subdivisions, and give under each head all 
the rules, with brief reasons and the exceptions and 
special plays properly belonging to it, making, with 
the Laws appended, a handbook, or guide to play, 
as full and complete as possible, from the formation 
of the table to the end of tlie hand. There are 
ah'eady in existence many admirable treatises on the 
theory and philosophy of the game, and it is not 
intended to enter tlie same field here, but merely, 
as before stated, to furnish a practical guide to play. 



n. 

Formation of Table, The Score, Arrange- 
ment OF Hand, Etc. 

Partners are usually selected by cutting the cards, 
the two cutting the two lowest cards playing together 
against the other two. When five or six persons 
desire to play, all cut, and the four cutting the low- 
est cards make up the table, the other or others com- 
ing in at the end of the game, or rubber, as agreed, 
in the place of those of the four playing who, on a 
new cut, cut the highest cards. 

Partners may, however, be determined by agree- 
ment if preferred. 

The Ace is always low in cutting. The Laws in the 
Appendix give full directions in these matters of the 
formation of table, score, etc., but it is believed to be 
desirable to give a brief summary of them here. 

THE SCORE. 

The score may be kept in any manner previously 
agreed upon, either by rubber points, at short whist, 
in which the games are of five points, counting the 
lionors, or by games of five, or seven points, without 
counting the honors. 



Formation of Table, Etc. 



lu this country the preference seems to be in favor 
of not counting the honors ; and undoubtedly the hon- 
ors, as reckoned in short whist, have too great a pre- 
ponderance in the score. They cause, however, man}- 
interesting and critical positions and plays, and add to 
the variety of the game. The rubber i)oints are con- 
venient for keeping a record of points made and lost, 
but a record of games or points made and lost can also 
be kept by the other system. The method of scoring 
makes but little difference in the play ; but the style 
of play at short whist is somewhat more varied than 
at the game as played without the honors. 

ARRANGEMENT OF HAND, ETC. 

On taking up his hand, the player should count 
and sort it, each suit in regular order, and look it 
over carefully to form an estimate of its character 
and possibilities, and the best Avay of managing it. 
Almost every hand should, of course, be opened by 
an original leader, upon the theory of the establish- 
ment and bringing in of his long suit; but as, in 
practice, it is frequently impossible to carry out the 
theory, the play after the first round must depend 
upon the developments of the game. But every 
hand, whether strong enough to insure the success- 
ful carrying out of the theor}^, or so weak as to be 
of no service unless as auxiliary to partner's hand, 
should be carefully played for all it is worth. 

It is a convenient and useful arrangement, to place 
the suits in the same order in every hand, so that the 



A Practical Guide, to Whist. 



player can readily turn to the proper suit without un- 
necessarily distracting his attention from the board. 
There is no advantage in always putting the ti'ump suit 
in the same place ; on the contrary, it weakens the 
player's confidence in his memory, which is important 
in whist. 



III. 

^ The Suit to Lead, 

original leads from strong suits. 

Lead first from your strongest suit. 
The choice of strong suits from which to lead 
first is as follows, in order of preference: 

1. Lead from six or more trumps. 

With so many, the chance of your being able to ex- 
haust opponents is very strong, and you should not be 
deterred from leading trumps by the turning of an 
honor on your right, or by a decided advantage in your 
favor in the score. 

2. Lead from five trumps. 

It is almost always best to lead trumps from five. 
The exceptions are as follows : 
a. With five low trumps, and no good cards in the 

plain suits. 
6, With a decided advantage in the score, or only 

one trick needed to save or win the game. 
c. With an honor turned on your right, and a poor 

suit hand. 

3. Lead from four trumps with the command of, 
or well-guarded high cards in, at least two plain 
suits. 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



Especially if you have no loug plain suit. But it is 
sometimes better to open your most advantageous 
plain suit, as : 

a. With a decided advantage in the score. 

&. An honor turned on the right. 

4. Lead from a plain suit of five or more,* or the 
best of two equally loug ones. 

This is the common opening long suit lead, unless 
with great strength in trumps. Such a suit may per- 
haps be established and brought in, or, at least, be 
useful in forcin<>' opponents and diminishing their 
trump superiority. 

The holding of Ace, Queen, at the head of the suit, 
should not prevent the lead from it. 

5. Lead from four trumps, with three three-card 
plain suits. 

Especially if you have command of, or high cards 
well guarded in, plain suits. Little harm can be done 
by opening trumps with such a hand, even though the 
plain suits are weak. You can trump nothing, and 
perhaps maj^ help to establish partner's suit, and ena- 
ble him to bring it in. But it is sometimes as well 
not to open the trumps, as : 

«. When they are very low in rank. 

6. An honor is turned on the right. 

c. You have an advantage in the score, or but one 
card needed to save or win the game. 

6. Lead from your best four-card suit. 

That containing the highest cards. But, when the 
only long suit contains no high cards, nothing for 



The Suit to Lead. 



instance above the eight, it is usually better to resort 
to a forced lead from a weak suit, as explained below. 

A strong trump suit, as above indicated, is the 
most advantageous to open. But the character of 
the trump turned, the state of the score, and the 
general character of the hand, are important ele- 
ments to be considered in determining whether or 
not to open with a trump lead. With a great advan- 
tage in the score, or but one card needed to save or 
win the game, a more conservative game is usually 
played. So, when you hold a tenace over an honor 
turned on the rigbt, it is sometimes of importance 
to have the lead come to instead of from you, and 
therefore a plain suit is the best to ojDen first. 
Other contingencies will occur to the good player, 
where a trump lead must depend upon his judgment 
in view of all the conditions. But, generally, with 
strength in trumps, the turning of an honor on the 
right should not prevent the lead of trumps, if 
otherwise riglit, nor should a trump lead be made 
from moderate strength only, merely because an 
honor was turned on the left. 

ORIGINAL LEADS FROM WEAK SUITS. 

"When the long plain suit is of four low cards 
only, and you have no strength in trumps, lead from 
your best three-card suit. 

The one which contains the highest cards. This is 
- called a '* forced lead." It may strengthen partner's 



10 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



suit, and, at least, is not likely to do harm. Partner's 
hand and the fall of the cards will soon show him the 
character of the suit led from, and he will not be 
deceived into believing that you are long in it. For 
this purpose the best suits arc those headed by two 
or more high cards in sequence — as Queen, Knave — 
Knave, Ten— or by a Knave, or Ten. If partner has 
previously led, it may be better to return his suit, un- 
less it was won cheaply on the first round ; or to lead 
through a"suit opened by left-hand adversary, especially 
if fourth hand seems to be weak in it. 

With a poor hand and desperate score, lead trumps 
from three or less. 

Unless partner proves to be strong in trumps and 
desirous of having them led, there is no chance of sav- 
ing the game. 

With a desperate score, if your adversaries opened 
the hand with a trump lead, lead first from your 
weakest suit. 

The highest card of it ; your partner should finesse 
deeply in the suit, and, on his return lead, should lead 
the highest of his weakest suit, in which you should 
also finesse deeply. In this way possibly some defence 
can be made, keeping your high cards as long as pos- 
sible. 

If your long suit was opened by your right-hand 
adversary, lead from your most advantageous three- 
card suit. 

There is, of course, no use in leading up to the 
strong hand, unless you have the entire control of the 



The Suit to Lead. n 



suit, and partner may and very probably will lead the 
suit through the original leader to your advantage. 
If partner is out of the suit, lead it for him to trump, 
unless he has indicated trump strength, or unless you 
are very weak in trumps. If left-hand opponent can 
trump the suit, lead trumps unless very weak in them. 
If an opponent has signalled for trumps, or otherwise 
indicated strength in trumps, lead the suit for partner 
to trump even though weak yourself in trumps. 

SECOND AND LATER LEADS. 

On a second lead continue your suit. 

It is disadvantageous to change the suit, unless : 

a. It is likely to be trumped by an adversary who 

has not indicated trump strength. 
5. Partner is weak and right-hand adversary prob- 
ably strong in it, and you have not the best 
card of it. 

c. In trumps, one of the adversaries is out of trumps. 

d. You hold the master-card of partner's suit; in 

which case you should generally lead it at once 
to get rid of the control and clear the suit for 
him. 

If, after the first round, you are obliged to change 
the suit, you may properly : 

1. Lead from four trumps, to protect your suit 
from being trumped ; 

2. Lead from your best three-card suit ; 

3. Return partner's suit, if he has led ; 

4. Lead a suit opened by left-hand opponent, 
especially if fourth hand appears to be weak in it ; 



12 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



5. Lead a singleton, if weak in trumps. 

A singleton should 7i£ver be led on an original lead, 
and it is very seldom advisable at any time, except as 
above indicated, as some one must be long in the suit 
and will lead it. The lead gives indication of weak- 
ness, oi course, but not necessarily more so than many 
other plays. 
# 
If your or partner's suit is established, lead trumps 

from four. 

Even from three, if opponents have not indicated 
trump strength, and you have a sure card of re-entry 
in another suit. But do not lead them for your part- 
ner's established suit, unless you can get in and lead it 
to him later. 

If opponents have indicated trump strength, force 
them to trump. 

If they are strong in trumps there is little chance of 
bringing in your or partner's long suit ; but it may at 
least be useful to reduce their trump superiority by 
forcing them to expend their trumps upon it. But do 
not lead a suit which both adversaries are out of, for 
the one who is weak in trumps will trump, and the one 
who is strorg in trumps will discard losing cards of 
plain suits. 

Continue a trump lead from strength until one of 
the adversaries renounces. 

But, if right-hand opponent is out, it is sometimes 
well to continue the lead through left-hand opponent 
to draw his best trump or give the trick to partner 
with a comparatively low trump. 



The Suit to Lead. 13 



Lead trumps from less than four to stop a cross- 
ruff. 

A cross -ruff is very effective in trick making and 
often defeats very high cards, and it should be stopped 
as soon as possible if against you. 

Remaining with the best trump, the only other 
being in the hand of an opponent, draw the losing- 
trump. 

But not if neither j-ou nor partner can lead an estab- 
lished suit. If opponent's suits are established and 
yours not, it is better to force out the losing trump 
with a card of your or partner's suit, which will also 
help to clear and establish the suit. 

Force partner if you are strong or he is weak in 
trumps. 

But if you are yourself weak in trumps, and have no 
indication as to whether partner is weak or strong in 
them, it is usuall}'^ best not to force him, unless an 
adversary has shown trump strength. If you are both 
weak, or if you can estabUsh a cross-ruff, it is well to 
force him. 

Lead a thirteener to force the fourth hand. 

If he is strong in trumps ; especially when he holds 
the last or best trump. But not if you know him to be 
weak. 

RETURN LEADS. 

Return partner's suit at once with the master-card 
if you have it ; otherwise lead your own suit, if it is 
a n:ood one, before returnins: his. 



14 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



You should help partner all you can in his suit by 
getting rid of the control of it, and getting high cards 
in it out of his way, so as to clear and establish it for 
him. But if you are stronger in the suit than he is, or 
have so strong a hand as to warrant your insisting on 
directing the play, you would be justified in retailing 
the best card of his suit for re-entry, and instead of 
returning his, opening your strong suit, or leading 
trumps. 

Return partner's trump lead, or lead to his trump 
signal, at the first opportunity. 

The responsibility for the hand belongs with one 
who makes an early trump signal or lead, and his part- 
ner should co-operate with him and carry out his plan 
to the best of his ability. A late trump signal or lead, 
however, does not necessarily indicate very great 
strength in trumps, and has not the same obligatory 
force as an early one has. But still, it should be 
responded to promptly. 



IV. 

The Card to Lead, 
original leads from strong suits. 

The proper card to lead from a strong suit depends 
upon the character and number of the suit. High 
cards are led generally, to take the trick and escape 
being trumped, possibly to catch other high cards 
in hands of opponents, or force out higher and pro- 
mote those held to a higher rank ; and also, to 
indicate the number and character of the suit. 

Low cards are led when it is best to reserve such 
high cards as are held until others are drawn out, 
and gain the command later ; and also, by the rank 
of those subsequently played, to indicate the num- 
ber led from. 

No general rules can be given to cover all cases 
of leads, or even a large proportion of them. Each 
combination requires a particular card to be led 
from it, as given in the statement of leads, below. 
The only general rules are : 

1. Lead the lowest of a head sequence of three, 



1 6 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



fourth best of a head sequence of four or more, 
in a suit of five or more, including the King. 

The old rule, to lead the highest of a head sequence, 
does not now apply except in two cases ; a sequence 
to the King, with only four in suit, and a sequence to 
the Queen, with four or more in suit. Formerly the 
lowest of a head sequence was generally led in trumps ; 
now the rule applies to both trumps and plain suits. 

2. When a low card should be led, lead the fourth 
best of those held. 

Showing three higher cards held : the number of the 
suit being indicated by lower cards subsequently played, 
if not on the first round, as it often will be to a care- 
ful observer. 

High cards are led from strong suits as follows. 



HIGH CARD LEADS FROM STRONG SUITS. 

Ace is led from, 

1. Ace, King, and three (in trumps five) or more 
lower, not including Queen. 

2. Ace, Queen, Knave, and one or more lower. 

3. Ace, Queen (or Knave), and three (in trumps 
five) or more lower. 

4. Ace, and four (in trumps six) low cards. 

The Ace indicates a suit of five at least, unless fol- 
lowed by Queen, which shows four only ; or by the 
Ten, in which case the suit may be of four or more. 



The Card to Lead. 17 



King is led from, 

1. Ace, King, Queen, Knave, without others. 

2. Ace, King, Queen, and one lower. 

3. Ace, King, and two low ; in plain suits (in 
trumps lowest). 

4. King, Queen, Knave, Ten, without others. 

5. King, Queen, Knave, and one lower. 

6. King, Queen, and two low ; in plain suits (in 
trumps lowest). 

The King indicates Ace, or Queen, perhaps both, and 
a suit of four at the most. 

Queen is led from, 

1. Ace, King, Queen, and three or more lower, 
not including Knave. 

2. King, Queen, Ten, and two or more lower. 

3. King, Queen, and three (in trumps five) or 
more lower, not including Knave. 

4. Queen, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower. 

The Queen indicates King, and perhaps Ace, with a 
suit of five or more ; or Knave, Ten, and one or more 
lower. The first round will probably show which. 

NOTE. — The lead of Queen from head of a sequeRce is given 
here out of deference to the majority of the authorities on the 
subject. But it would seem to be more in accordance with the 
principles of the American leads system, as well as simpler and 
more consistent with the other leads from high head sequences, in 
five-card suits, that from the sequence of Queen, Knave, Ten, at 
head of a suit of five or more, the Ten, or lowest of the sequence 
should be led, as it is in all the other cases. By so doing, a rule 
could be formulated to cover all cases of leads from such se- 
2 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



Knave is led from, 

1. Ace, King, Queen, Knave, and one or more 
lower. 

Even though holding the Ten also, as it is best for 
the sake of uniformity not to go below tlie fourth best 
in leading ; and with such strength it is not important 
whether Knave or Teu is led so far as making tricks is 
concerned. The next card led shows whether only 
five or six or more of the suit were held originally. 

2. King, Queen, Knave, and two or more lower 
not including the Ten. 

The Knave indicates King and Queen, and a suit of 
five or more. 

The old lead of Knave from head of a sequence is 
now abandoned in strong suits ; but in weak suits it 
is still led. 

quences, as follows : Lead the lowest of a head sequence of three, 
fourth best of a head sequence of four or more, in a suit of five 
or more, including the Queen. 

The old lead of Knave from the head of a suit of Knave, Ten, 
Nine, etc., is now practically abandoned, since it has been so 
clearly shown that the practice of covering at second hand, with 
the King or Queen, is a mistake, as the Ace must lie in third 
or fourth hand, and second hand does not cover except with Ace, 
and the special object of the lead of Knave is thus nullified. 
It would seem that inasmuch as the practice as to covering the 
Queen at second hand is the same, and for the same reason there 
is also good reason for abandoning the lead of the Queen from 
the head of a sequence, especially as by so doing, and confining 
the lead to the lowest of the sequence, in all these cases definite 
information is given as to the number of the suit led from, and 
greater simplicity and uniformity secured. This practice would 
also simplify the rules for second leads. 



The Card to Lead. 19 



Ten is led from, 

1. King, Queen, Knave, Ten, and one or more 
lower ; 

Even though holdiug the Nine. 

2. King, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower. 

The Ten indicates King and Knave, and perhaps 
Queen. 

By the play suggested in note to the lead of Queen, 
the lead of Ten would be restricted to live-card suits, 
and include the lead of Ten from Queen, Knave, Ten, 
and two or more lower, as the lowest of the sequence, 
as in other five-card suit leads ; so that the Ten should 
always show five in suit at least. But the rule is given 
as stated hy the majority of the authorities. 

Nine is led from, 

1. Ace, Queen, Ten, Mne, without others. 

2. Ace, Knave, Ten, Mne, without others. 

3. King, Knave, Ten, Mne, with or without lower. 

Being in each case the fourth best. G. W. P., in 
*' American Whist Illustrated," makes a special point 
of leading Nine only from King, Knave, Nine, but this 
requires the lead of Ace from the above four-card suits, 
Ace, Queen, Ten, Nine ; and Ace, Knave, Ten, Nine. 

The Ten always shows King and Knave. 

The Nine indicates the Ten and two honors ; the first 
round will show which. 

All Other cards are led in strong suits only as 
fourth best, and from all combinations of four or 
more cards other than those above given, lead, first, 
the fourth best. 



20 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



The character of the trump turned sometimes 
necessitates modifications of high-card trump leads 
as follows. 

SPECIAL LEADS IN TRUMPS. 

1. Lead Ace, then King, from Ace, King, and 
three or more low, if Queen was turned on the right. 

2. Lead Queen from Ace, Queen, Ten, etc., if 
Knave was turned on the right. 

3. Lead Queen from Queen, Knave, Nine, etc., if 
Ten was turned on the right. 

4. Lead Knave from King, Knave, Nine, etc., if 
Ten was turned on the right. 

5. Lead Knave from Knave, Ten, Nine, etc., if 
Queen or King was turned on the left. 

C. Lead Knave from Knave, Ten, Eight, etc., if 
Nine was turned on the right. 

Other special trump leads may be necessitated by 
tfie character of the trump turned on the right or 
left. 

High cards are led on forced leads from weak 
suits, as follows. 

ORIGINAL LEADS FROM WEAK SUITS. 

Ace is led from, 

1. Ace, King. 

2. Ace and one lower. 

Leads from two-card suits are never advisable unless 
at the end of the hand, when the eituation renders it 



The Card to Lead. 



necessary, or when the suit is known to be partner's 
strong suit. 

King is led from, 

1. Ace, King, Queen. 

2. King, Queen, and one lower. 

3. King and one lower. 

But, at the end of the hand, if the suit can go round 
but once, lead the low from King and one low. 

Queen is led from, 

1. Queen, Knave, with or without one lower. 

2. Queen and one lower. 
Knave is led from, 

1. Knave and one or two lower. 
Ten is led from, 

1. Ace, Queen, Ten. 

But only when absolutely unavoidable, as it is a veiy 
bad suit to open, and should be held to be led up to or 
throujj^h, if possible. If the suit can go round but 
once, lead the Ace. 

2. King, Knave, Ten. 

3. Ten and one or two lower. 

From any three-card suit headed by nothing 
higher than tlie Knave, and from any two cards, if 
forced to lead, lead the highest. 

Except, as above stated, when the suit can go round 
but onccj lead the lower of any two if you have not 
the Ace. 

It is not often necessary to open a two-card suit 



22 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



until toward the eud of the hand when some indica- 
tions have been given as to whose suit it is. 

In a suit known to be partner's strong suit, not 
previously led, lead Ace, if you have it, or second 
best from second and third best ; otherwise lead 
highest of any three, lowest of any four or more 
cards you hold of tlie suit. 

On the same principle as the return lead of highest of 
two, etc., to clear and help establish his suit without 
exhausting his high cards. 

SECOND LEADS FROM STRONG SUITS. 

On a second lead, in continuing your suit, the card 
to be selected depends upon the character and num- 
ber of the suit. Tlie rules, so far as they cover gen- 
eral cases, are as follows : 

1. Lead the master card, if you have it without 
one or more in sequence with it. 

If not played on the second round it is in danger of 
being trumped on the third round. But in trumps 
there not being any such danger, it is often held back 
to keep the command. So in plain suits it is well to 
occasionally retain it, leading a low one, as when : 
a. Left-hand opponent has second best, and fourth 
hand is weak in the suit, so that partner may 
be able to take the trick cheaply. This is more 
frequently practised, however, in left-hand op- 
ponent's suit, and is termed ^* underplay." 
6. "When trumps are all out, or in your or partner's 

hand. 
c. If you are very strong in trumps. 



The Card to Lead. 23 



If the best is likely to draw second best from an 
opponent, it should be led on second round. 

2. After leading a high card, unless you hold the 
best, or two or more in sequence, including second 
best, follow with your original fourth best. 

This play shows exactly two higher cards remaining 
in your hand, which the fall of the cards on this round 
and your partner's cards will indicate to him, and the 
subsequent fall of the cards will show the number you 
hold, if not indicated on the second round. 

3. After leading the lowest of a head sequence, fol- 
low with the next higher if the suit was originally of 
six or more ; the next but one higher, if of five cards 

only. 

This rule applies to all leads from head sequences in 
suits of five or more except that from Queen, Knave, 
Ten, etc. If the Ten were led from head sequence to 
the Queen in five-card suits, as suggested, the opera- 
tion of this rule would bo extended to this case also. 

4. After leading a low card, if you hold second 
and third best, lead second best. 

When the first lead was of a low card, the conven- 
tional play of lower cards gives information as to the 
number of the suit led from, although it is often indi- 
cated on the first round, as when a Two is led, or a 
Three, and the Two falls, on the trick the lead shows 
four at most. 
For other second leads no general rules can be laid 
down, but the proper cards to be led first and sec- 
ond from the various combinations in strong suits 
are given in the following table of 



24 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



LEADS FROM STRONG SUITS IN DETAIL. 



FROM 

Ace, Kingj Queen, Knave, 
and one or more lower, 

Ace, King, Queen, Knave, 
without others, 

Ace, King, Queen, and two 
or more lower, not includ- 
ing Knave, 

Ace, King, Queen, and one 
lower, 

Ace, King, and three or 
more lower, not including 
Queen, 

Ace, King, and two lower," 
not including Queen, 

Ace, Queen, Knave, Ten, 
with or without others, 

Ace, Queen, Knave, and one 
or more low. 

Ace, Queen, Ten, and two 
or more low. 

Ace, Queen, Ten, and one 

low. 
Ace, Queen, and three or 

more low, 



LEAD 

Knave, then King from five, 
Queen from six or more 
originally in the suit. 

King, then Knave. 

Queen, then Ace from five. 
King from six or more in 
suit. 

King, then Queen. 

Ace, then King, in plain 
suits. (In trumps, 4th 
best, unless with five or 
more low.) 

King, then Ace, in plain 
suits. (In trumps, lowest.) 

Ace, then Ten. 

Ace, then Queen from four. 

Knave from five or more 

in suit. 
Ace, then 4th best. (In 

trumps, 4th best, unless 

with 7 in all.) 
Fourth best, then Ace. 

Ace, then 4th best. (In 
trumps, 4th best, unless 
with 7 in all.) 



The Card to Lead. 



25 



FROM 

Ace, Queen, and two low, 
Ace, Knave, Ten, and two 
or more lower, 



Ace, Knave, Ten, and one 

low, 
Ace, Knave, and three or 

more low. 

Ace, and four or more low, 



Ace, and three low, 
King, Queen, Knave, Ten, 
and one or more lower, 

King, Queen, Knave, Ten, 

without others. 
King, Queen, Knave, and 

two or more low, 

King, Queen, Knave, and 

one low, 
King, Queen, Ten, and two 

or more low. 
King, Queen, Ten, and one 

low, 
King, Queen, and three or 



LEAD 

Lowest (4th best). 

Ace, then 4th best. (In 

trumps, 4th best, unless 

with 7 in all.) 
Nine, then Ace. 
Lowest, then Ace. 

Ace, then 4th best. (In 

trumps, 4th best, unless 

with 7 in all.) 
Ace, then 4th best. (In 

trumps, 4th best, unless 

with 7 in all.) 
Lowest, then Ace. 
Ten, then Queen from five, 

Knave from six or more in 

suit. 
King, then Ten. 

Knave, then King from five, 
Queen from six or more in 
suit. 

King, then Knave. 

Queen ; then, if Queen wins, 

4th best. 
King. (In trumps, lowest.) 

Queen ; then, if Queen wins, 



26 



A Practical Guide to Whist 



FROM 

more lower, not including 
Knave, 

King, Queen, and two low, 

King, Knave, Ten, Nine, with 
or without lower, 



King, Knave, Ten, and one 
or more low, 



King, and three or more low, 
Queen, Knave, Ten, Nine, 

with or without lower. 
Queen, Knave, Ten, and 

one or more lower, not 

including Nine, 



LEAD 

original 4th best. (In 
trumps, 4th best, unless 
with 7 in all.) 

King ; then, if it wins, low- 
est. (In trumps, lowest.) 

Nine ; then, if Nine wins. 
Knave from four, Ten from 
five or more in suit ; if 
Nine draws Queen, or Ace 
and Queen, then King 
from four. Knave from 
five or more ; if Nine draws 
Ace and not Queen, then 
King ; then Knave from 
four. Ten from five or 
more in suit. 

Ten ; then, if Ten wins, orig- 
inal 4th best ; if Ten draws 
Queen, or Ace and Queen, 
then King from four. 
Knave from five or more ; 
if Ten draws Ace and not 
Queen, then King. 

Fourth best. 

Queen, then Nine. 

Queen, then Knave from 
four. Ten from five or 
more in suit. 



The Card to Lead. 



2^ 



FROM 

Queen, and three or more 

low, 
Knave,' Ten, Nine, and one 

or more lower, 
Ten, Nine, Eight, and one 

or more lower. 
From all other combinations, 



Fourth best. 
Fourth best. 
Fourth best. 
Fourth best. 



LEADS FROM WEAK SUITS IN DETAIL. 



FROM 

Ace, King, Queen, 
Ace, King, Knave, 
Ace, King, and one other 

lower than Knave, 
Ace, Queen, Knave, 
Ace, Queen, Ten, 

Ace, Queen, and one other 

lower than Ten, 
Ace, and two others, lower 

than Queen, 
King, Queen, Knave, 
King, Queen, and one lower, 
King, Knave, Ten, 



King, Knave, and one lower. 



LEAD 

King, then Queen. 
King, then Ace. 
King, then Ace. 

Ace, then Queen. 
Ten, then Ace. ( But this is 
a very bad suit to open.) 
Lowest, then Ace. 

Lowest, then Ace. 

King, then Knave. 

King, then Queen. 

Ten, (then if Ten wins, 
Knave ; if Ten draws 
Queen, or Ace and Queen, 
then King.) 

Lowest. 



28. 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



FROM 

King, and any two others^ 
lower than Queen, 

Queen, Knave, Ten, 

Queen, Knave, and one 
lower, 

Queen, and two others low- 
er than Knave, 

Knave, and two lower. 

Ten, and two lower. 

Any other three cards, 

Any two cards. 



Lowest. 

Queen, then Knave. 
Queen, then Knave. 

Lowest. 

Knave. 
Ten. 
Highest. 
Highest. 



But if you know the suit is your partner's longest 
suit, lead the highest of any three. 



LEADS IN PARTNER^S SUIT. 

The card to lead in return of partner's suit is se- 
lected with reference to its being of the most service 
in taking tricks, or strengthening and clearing the 
suit and getting rid of the control, and also giving 
indication of the number of the suit you hold. The 
general rules are as follows : 

. Return partner's lead in trumps, or plain suits, 
with the master-card, if you have it, or second best 
from second and third best, regardless of the num- 
ber you hold of it. 



The Card to Lead. 29 



To get rid of the control, and clear and establish his 
suit for him. 

Not liaving the best, nor second and third best, 
return partner's suit with the higher of any two, 
lowest of any three or more cards of it remaining in 
your hand. 

With but two, your hi<i:h cards are of the most ser- 
vice returned first, in order to save his strength, and 
clear the suit ; with three or more of it left, it is right 
to reserve your strength, to help him later, and also 
by the play to show him that you originally held four 
of the suit. 

But where there is any danger of blocking his suit, 
the highest you hold should be gotten out of his way 
Ijefore the fourth round, as otherwise you would be 
unable to lead to him a card of it which he could take, 
and he would thus be prevented from making with his 
last card or cards of the suit, if trumps were exhausted. 
If you had four originally and have discarded one, you 
should return his lead with the higher of the two re- 
maining. On his lead of a high card indicating a suit 
of five or more, you, having four of the suit, should 
play the third best, third hand, and retain the lowest 
until the last to return to him, so that his last card or 
cards may make. 

On partner's original lead of an Ace, return the 
suit with the highest you hold of it, if an honor, 
regardless of the number you hold. 

The lead of Ace usually indicates five in suit. If you 
hold four) your high card, if not led, might take the 
fourth trick, and prevent him from getting in. and 



30 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



makin.^ his fifth card ; while, by returnlDg the honor, 
and retaining a low card till the last, you are sure to do 
hira no harm, but to strengthen his suit, and remain 
with a low card to lead to him, which, if trumps are 
out, he can take and then bring in the last card of his 
suit. 

In response to partner's trump signal, lead the 
Ace, if you have it; not having Ace, lead the highest 
of any three, the lowest of any four or more trumps. 

In trumps there is no danger of blocking, but the 
systematic lead to a call is important for the informa- 
tion it furnishes as to the number and location of the 
trumps. The Ace is led, to be certain of two rounds 
and leave him with the command of trumps if possible. 

With three honors, however, you should lead the 
highest of them in answer to his trump call, regardless 
of the number you hold. 

Get rid of the command of partner's suits ; keep 
that of opponents' suits. 

If, however, you arc manifestly stronger in partner's 
suit than he is, you can treat his lead as a strengthening 
one, and he should yield his play to yours. In oppo- 
nents' suits finessing is justifiable ; in partner's suit 
not, except with Ace, Queen, or Ace, Queen, Knave. 

In i^artner's suit, not previously opened, but 
known to be his, lead Ace, if you have it, or second 
best, from second and third best ; otherwise, lead 
the highest of any three, lowest of any four or more 
of it. 



The Card to Lead. 31 



Partner's suit may be indicated by his discard from 
it on opponents' lead of or call for trumps, or by bis 
discards from other suits, opponents' not having called 
for or led trumps ; or by opponents' leads of other 
suits. 

SPECIAL LEADS. 

When you hold the only remaining trumps, but 
have no established suit, or card of partner's estab- 
lished suit, lead the highest card, if King, Queen, 
or Knave of a suit not before opened, regardless of 
the number you hold of it. 

This is termed " Deschappelles' co?fp." The object of 
the play is to draw opponents' highest cards of the suit 
at once if possible, so that partner may be able to get 
in on a subsequent round, which, if you had led a low 
one, and compelled him to play high on the first round, 
he might be unable to do, and thus be prevented from 
bringing in his suit. A shrewd player, suspecting the 
coupj may defeat it by refusing to play his Ace on the 
first round. If partner has the Ace, he can take the 
trick or pass it as he deems proper, considering his 
hand. 

"When, after the first round of a suit opened by left- 
hand opponent, you remain with the best card, it is 
often advantageous to lead a low card of the suit 
through the original leader. 

This is termed " Underplay." The usual rule being 
to play the best card on the second round, the original 
leader is sometimes induced to think that the best card 
Is behind him, and, declining to put up his second best, 



32 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



your partner may win the trick, leaving you with the 
command. Thus, on a low card led, third hand plays 
Knave ; you, fourth hand, play Queen, having also the 
Ace, and later on lead a low card ; second hand, having 
the King, passes the trick, thinking Ace is with your 
partner, who takes it, say, with the Ten, and you re- 
main with the best card. This is rather strategy than 
skill ; and, if tried too often, may be suspected, and 
defeated by your opponent's putting up his King, or 
second best. So, at second hand, the same stratagem 
may be employed, by refusing to play the best on the 
second round to induce third hand to suppose that the 
best is with your partner, and to finesse. 



V. 

Second Hand. 

Many considerations enter into the selection of the 
proper card to play at second liand, according to the 
suit and card led, the cards held, the strength or 
weakness in trumps, and otherwise, and the position 
of high cards as indicated by the lead or other pre- 
vious plays, and there is much room for the exercise 
of skill and judgment. The general rules are given 
below. The play of liigh cards there directed is 
principally for plain suits. In trumps the play is 
more backward, high cards being often held back to 
get the command and keep it at the important time, 
unless it is desired to take the trick and stop the lead 
at once. 

SECOND HAND ON HIGH CARDS LED. 

Cover a high card led as follows : 
1. With Ace, when an lionor is led. 

Even when Knave is led, holdmg Ace and Queen, as.' 
Knave should be the highest card held by the leader, 
and King should be behind you. If you hold only Ace, 
the Knave is probably led from King* Queen, Knave, 
etc., and will win unless covered. 



34 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



Bat do not cover Queen, or Knave, with Ace, in 
trumps, unless you wish to stop the lead ; nor any 
honor of a plain suit opened late in the hand by one 
who holds the long trumps, as it is probably a Des- 
chappelles' coup. 

In plain suits when trumps are out, or j^ou have a 
strong trump hand, the Ace may be sometimes held 
up, when it is certain to come in later. So, with Ace, 
Knave, etc., King is sometimes passed by second hand ; 
but it should not be done unless wdth a good trump 
hand, and when reasonably certain to succeed. 

2. Wbeu you hold two higher cards in sequence. 

But not in trumps unless you wish to stop the lead ; 
nor with King, Queen, on a Knave led by an adversary 
w^ho holds the long trumps. [See Deschappelles' coup.] 

3. When you hold a fourchette; that is, the card 
next higher, and next lower, than the card led. 

4. Play King on the Nine, holding King and one 
low. 

5. Play King on Eight led when you hold King 
and Nine only. 

In each of the last two cases, the leader should have 
Ace, and the play of the King is the only chauce to 
save it. This applies, however, only to original leads. 

6. Play Queen on Ten led, if you hold Queen and 
only one low. 

The leader probably has King and Knave, and this is 
the best chance of saving Queen. 

7. In other cases, play low on a high card led. 



Second Hand. 35 



When ver\' desirous to lead trumps, or to have tUem 
led, it is justifiable to cover a Queen or Knave with 
King. The state of the game, or the indicated position 
of the cards, may also justify it. 

At the tenth trick, play the higher of any two cards 
(except the Ace) held of the suit led, if you hold 
major tenace, or second best guarded, in trumps, over 
the leader, as otherwise you might be compelled to 
take the next trick and lead up to his minor tenace, 
and so lose a trick. 

SECOND HAND ON A LOW CARD LED. 

Play high on a low card led, in the foUovring cases : 

1. Play the lowest of a head sequence of three or 
more higli cards. 

2. From Ace, Queen, Knave, etc., or King, Knave, 
Ten, etc., play the lowest of the cards in sequence. 

3. From Ace, King, and low, play King. 

Even if j^ou also hold the Knave, in plain suits. But 
in trumps, play low unless you wish to stop the lead. 
With Ace, King, Ten, and low, in trumps, play Ten. 

4. From King and one low, in trumps, play King. 

As the best chance of saving it, and stopping the lead, 
for in trumps Ace is not led unless with Queen, Knave, 
or six low. In plain suits, play low. 

5. From Ace, Queen, Ten, and low, in trumps and 
also in plain suits, if strong enough in trumps to 
lead them, play Ten. If not strong enough in 
trumps to lead them, play Queen in plain suits. 



}6 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



As you will probably remain with a tenace over the 
leader. 

6. From Ace, Queen, Ten, without others, play 
Ten. 

7. From King, Queen, and low, play Queen. 

In plain suits, but not in trumps holding two or more 
low. If Ace was turned on the left, play low ; if on the 
right, play Queen. With King, Queen, Ten, and low, 
in trumps, play Ten. 

8. Play Knave from Queen, Knave, and one low. 

9. Play Ten from Knave, Ten, and one low. 

10. Play Nine from Ten, Nine, and one low. 

"With but three cards, a high one played second hand 
may possibly be of some service, and can do no harm. 
It will not be mistaken for a trump signal, as it is not 
playing a higher before a lower card unnecessarily. 
To call for trumps from either of the last three combi- 
nations, play the higher of the two high cards on a low 
one led. 

With an honor singly guarded, if you wish to take 
the trick and lead trumps, j^lay the honor ; other- 
wise, play low. 

With Queen and one low trump, if Queen was turned 
by you as dealer, play Queen on a low trump led. 

On the second round of a suit play the master- 
card, if you have it. 

It is not usually safe to let it go, as it is likely to 
be trumped on the third round. But in trumps it is 



Second Hand. 37 



well to pass, if j^ou wish to retain the command ; and 
occasionally in plain suits ; as, 
a. When you have the long trumps, or a very strong 

trump hand. 
h. When trumps are all played, and the suit must be 

led again. 
c. When third hand has second best, and may be in- 
duced to hold it up, so that partner may win 
the trick cheaply and leave you with the com- 
mand. 

In other cases, play low on a low card led. 

The lowest, unless calling for trumps. 

The trump signal, character of the trump turned, 
and other considerations, arising from the ascertained 
positions of certain cards, may necessitate modifica- 
tions of the play at second hand, which cannot be 
fully specified ; and of -which the following are ex- 
amples : 

1. When a suit can go round but once, play Ace, 
if you have it. 

2. When you hold intermediate cards between the 
one led and others held by the leader, play lowest of 
the intermediate cards. 

Thus, with Ace, Queen, Ten, and low, play Ten on 
Eight led, as the leader should have King, Knave, 
Nine. With Ace, King, Ten, and low, play Ten on 
Eight led, for a similar reason. With Ace, Queen, 
Knave, Eight, play Eight on Seven led, as the leader 
should have King, Ten, Nine. Other such cases will 
occur. 



38 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



is. At the tenth trick, play the higliest of any two 
of a plain suit led, except it be the Ace, if you hold 
the major tenace, or second best guarded in trumps 
over the leader. 

Even lo playing King on Ace led, as otherwise you 
might be compelled to lead up to the minor tenace or 
best trump, and lose a trick. This is termed '' throw- 
ing high cards to place the lead." You cannot lose by 
the play, and may gain a trick by it. 

SECOND HAND RENOUNCING. 

When second hand has none of the suit led, he 
must discard, or trump. The determination which 
course to take depends upon many considerations, 
such as the character of the hand, the card and suit 
led, strength or weakness in trumps, the state of the 
game, the score, etc. 

The general rules for the play of second hand re- 
nouncing are as follows : 

On the lead of a winning card of a plain suit. 

1. With three or less trumps, you should play a 
trump. 

2. With four trumps and a strong hand, it is gen- 
erally best to pass ; but not if the leader has other 
winning cards of same suit, nor if partner is strong 
in trumps. 

3. With six trumps, or five with a strong hand, 
trump in and lead trumps, especially if partner is 
strong in trumps. 



Second Hand. ^9 



4. If third hand can also trump, phxy a high 
trump, if you have one, and are weak in trumps ; if 
strong, pass it, unless you have Ace, the leader hav- 
ing other winning cards to lead. 

On tlie lead of a card not a winner, it being 
doubtful whether partner can take the trick or not. 

1. With tliree or less trumps, trump freely. 

If third hand can also trump, play your highe. t 
trump. 

If you hold second and third best, to third hand's 

best, and fourth best trump, play the second best to in- 

. duce third hand to play the best. This is one of the 

few cases where a ''false card'' is justifiable. Of 

course, if he knows you have both, it is useless. 

2. With four trumps, do not trump a doubtful 
trick. 

Both for the sake of saving your trumps, which are 
loo valuable to be used in that way when your partner 
may be able to take the trick, and also to let him know 
that you have four. 

3. With six trumps, or five and a very strong suit 
hand, trump in and lead trumps. 

Especially if the trick saves or wins the game. But 
with a good advantage in the score, or an honor turned 
on the right, it may be as well to pass. The good 
judgment of the player must guide him, in view of all 
the conditions of the game. 

In other cases, discard a low card of another suit. 
The rules for the discard are given in a later chapter. 



40 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



If you had five trumps, be on the look-out against 
being caught witli one trump too many ; and if nec- 
essary, in order to liavc the lead come to your major 
tenace, or second best guarded, in trumps, through 
the minor tenace or best trump, get rid of the 
superfluous trump on the eleventh round. 

Or before, if necessar}'. This play is termed the 
'' grand cmip,^'' and is not infrequently caissed by care- 
less players at the cost of a trick which might have 
been saved. The methods of playing it are : 
a. Trumping partner's trick, if you can give him the 

lead again for the eleventh lead. 
h. Playing a lower trump on the eleventh trick, al- 
ready trumped by partner with a higher one. 



TABLE OF SECOND HAND PLAY. 

(Subject to modifications caused by the card led, 
the trump turned, ascertained position of high cards, 
trump signals, etc.) 



FROM 

Ace and others, not includ- 
ing King, 
Ace, and four or more low, 
Ace, King, and others, not 
including Queen, 

King, and one low trump, 1 

King, and one low, on | 

Nine led, \ 

King, Nine, on Eight led, J 



PLAY 

Ace on an honor led. 

Ace, if the game is critical. 

King. (But in trumps, low- 
est, unless desirous to stop 
the lead.) 



King. 



Second Hand. 



41 



FROM 

Ace, King, Queen, and low, 
King, Queen, and low (in 

plain suits), } 

Ace, Queen, Ten, and low, 

if weak in trumps. 
Ace, Queen, Knave,. and 1 

low, 
King, Queen, Knave, and ► 

low. 
Queen, Knave,andonelow, j 
Ace, Queen, Ten, with- 
out others. 
Ace, Queen, Ten, and low 

in trumps, 
Ace, Queen, Ten, and low, 

if strong in trumps, !" 

King, Knave, Ten, and 

low. 
Queen, Knave, Ten, and 

low. 
Knave, Ten, and one low. 
King, Knave, Ten, Nine, 

and low, 
Queen, Knave, Ten, Nine, 

and low, } 

Knave, Ten, Nine, and 

low. 
Ten, Nine, and one low. 
In other cases, 



Queen. 



Knave. 



Ten. 



Nine. 



Lowest (unless calling for 
trumps). 



VI. 

Third Hand. 

The play of the third hand on partner's original 
lead of a low card from a strong suit is usually of the 
highest card (or lowest of a head sequence), in order 
(1) to take, or attempt to take, the trick, and (2) to 
get high cards out of partner's way, so as to clear and 
establish his suit, and leave him with the command 
of it. Later plays at third hand depend upon the 
suit, and card, led, the state of the game and score, 
the ascertained or supposed position of high cards, 
and other considerations. In general, it is not proper 
to finesse in partners- suit, except with Ace, Queen, 
or Ace, Queen, Knave, and low. But in trumps and 
opponents' suits, it is often advantageous to do so, 
and in your own, also, according to the supposed 
position of high cards. 

The general rules are as follows. 

On partners lead of a low card : 

1. From any two or more cards in sequence at head 
of suit, play the lowest of the sequence. 

2. From Ace, Queen, Knave, and low, play Knave. 

3. From Ace, Queen, and low, play Queen. 



Third Hand. 



But if only one trick is needed to win or save the 
game, do not finesse. 

4. In other cases, play your highest card. 

Unless, of course, it is lower than the card played by 
second hand, or lower than, or in sequence with, the 
card led. With King, Knave, and low, play King. It 
is not proper to finesse the Knave, in plain suits. In 
trumps it is allowable to finesse deeply, except on 
partner's original lead from strength. But with Ace, 
Knave, and low, in trumps, play Knave, if an honor 
was turned on the right, if second hand did not play a 
higher card. 

According to some authors, if you hold only Ace and 
King, you should play Ace on partner's lead, and re- 
turn King, as a conventional method of shov/ing that 
you have no more of the suit. But this is open to 
the objection that if fourth hand has none of it, and 
trumps, the leader would be deceived as to the posi- 
tion of the King. 

On partner's lead of a high card : 
1. Play low on an honor led. 

Unless covered by second hand. Do not play Ace 
on partner's Knave. If led from a strong suit, he 
should have also King and Queen. If led from a weak 
suit, it should be the highest he had, and fourth hand 
probably has not both King and Queen, so that you 
remain with the highest over the second best, prob- 
ably. 

The exceptions to the rule are : 

a. If the suit can go round but once, play Ace, if you 
have it. 



44 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



6. With Ace, Knave, and one low, play Ace on part- 
ner's original lead of King or Queen and return 
Knave. 

c. With Ace, King, and one low, play King on part- 
ner's Queen and return Ace. 

These plays are to avoid blocking the suit. 

2. Play low on Ten led, except as follows : 

a. Play Ace from Ace and low. 

b. Prom Ace, Queen, or Ace, Knave, etc., play Ace 

if it is important to get the lead ; otherwise, 
play low. 

c. From King and low, play King ; but with King, 

Knave, and low, pass the Ten. 

d. If second hand covers the Ten, play higher, if you 

can. 

3. On Nine, or lower card, led, play highest (or 
lowest of a head sequence), except as follows : 

a. With Ace, Queen, and low, pass the Nine, unless 
covered, or unless it is important to get the lead 
at once. 

6. Do not play Queen or Knave on Nine led, unless it 
is covered by second hand. 

On the second round play the best card of the suit, 
if you have it. 

Especially in partner's suit. But with two or more 
in sequence, including the best, you should, of course, 
play the lowest of the sequence. 

It is not usually safe to hold up the best card, as it is 
likely to be trumped on the third round. But it may 
safely be done in trumps, and sometimes in opponent's 



Third Hand. 45 



suit, when it is desirable, and probably practicable to 
retain the control. 

With best and third best, finesse, if strong in 
trumps. 

But not if partner won the first round cheaply ; nor 
if second hand is out of the suit, as second best must be 
with fourth hand or partner ; and you should never fi- 
nesse against partner. 

With second and fourth best, finesse fourth best, 
especially if the best card is on your left. 

This is termed the " finesse obligatory." If left- 
hand opponent has first and third best, j^ou are bound 
to lose both either way ; but if he has only the best, 
the fourth best will draw it. 

If, at the eleventh trick, the trumps are divided 
equally betvreen your partner and your left-hand 
opponent, you should win the trick, even though 
already partner's, if you can, so as to lead through 
left-hand opponent. 

To give partner the advantage of position, or tenace. 

The play of the third hand in the later stages of 
the hand depends so much upon the position of high 
cards, the state of the game, etc., that no more par- 
ticular rules can be laid down. The player's skill 
and judgment must guide him. But it is very sel- 
dom right to refuse to win a trick, unless with almost 
a certainty of gaining by the play. 



46 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



PLAY OF THIRD HAND RENOUNCING. 

When third liand lias none of the suit led, he must 
trump, or discard ; in determining which, he is to 
be guided by the same considerations, to a consider- 
able extent, as the second hand renouncing. The 
cards held in other suits and in trumps, the state of 
tlie game, the score, etc., etc., are all to be con- 
sidered. It is, however, right to take the trick, if it 
is against you, and not refuse to trump a low card, 
unless it is reasonably certain that more can be 
gained by not trumping. The general rules are as 
follows : 

Do not trump partner's honor. 

Unless : 

a. It was clearly led for a force, or on a cross-ruff. 

h. The trick saves or wins the game. 

c. The suit can go round but once, ace not being led. 

d. Second band covers. 

It is usually for the interest of partner's suit to pass 
an honor led to draw a higher honor, in order to clear 
the suit, except in the cases above mentioned. 

Trump partner's Ten, or lower card. 

With three trumps or less, trump freel3\ But with 
four and a strong suit hand, it may be well to let it pass. 
With six or more trumps, trump in and lead trumps. 

Do not trump a thirteener. 

Unless evidently led for you to play your highest 
trump, in order to save it or to draw a higher one 
from fourth hand, who also holds a low trump. 



Third Hand. 47 



On the second round of an opponent's suit, do not 
pla}^ the last trump. 

Even on a winner, unless you are sure of bringing in 
your or partner's established suit, and rendering the 
opponent's suit useless. A third round of the suit will 
probably exhaust his partner, while, if trumped on the 
second round, he could probably return the suit later. 

If you hold best and fourth best trumps, to sec- 
ond hand's second and third best, at the eleventh 
trick, do not overtrump the third best. 

As it would force you to lead up to his best trump ; 
while, if he is compelled to lead, you make both tricks. 

Other plays by third hand renouncing Avill be sug- 
gested by the fall of the cards, and the position of 
the game. Thus, in a suit opened by partner, or 
by left-hand opponent, which has gone round three 
times, only two cards being left which lie between 
partner and your left-hand opponent ; if partner leads 
the best card, you should not trump, for, if he has 
both, the lead was to force the fourth hand ; but if 
he leads the losing card, you should trump. 



VII. 
Getting Rid of Control and Unblocking. 

It is often important to be able to return a low 
instead of a high card of partner's suit, having but 
one left of it, so that he may be able to take the 
trick, and bring in his remaining card or cards of it, 
when trumps are out, which, if a high card is led, he 
would be unable to do, and would fail to make the 
trick or tricks which he should have made. For 
this purpose, a good player will get his high cards of 
his partner's suit out of the way before they are in 
danger of blocking the suit. Under the new system 
of leads, this is more easy and simple than formerly, 
as the original lead in so many cases indicates the 
number of the .suit led from. This is done by play- 
ing high at third hand on a low card led, and by the 
return of a high card from two remaining of the suit. 
But there are cases when third hand holds four of 
the suit, and a high card is led, which necessitate 
unblocking in other ways, as follows : 

1. On partner's lead of Ace, Queen, or Knave, if 
you hold four of tlie suit, play your third best on the 
first round, and retain your lowest card until the last 
round of the suit, to return to partner. 



Getting Rid of Control and Unblocking. 49 



2. On partner's lead of Ten, unless attempting to 
take the trick, play third best of four, and keep the 
lowest to return to partner last. 

These leads usually indicate five cards in suit, at least, 
and third hand's high card, unless played before the 
last round, is likely to take the trick and prevent the 
returning of the suit, thus " blocking " it, so that part- 
ner's last card or cards are deprived of an opportunity 
to take. The play is sometimes termed the '' plain 
suit echo." 

3. On partner's lead of a low card, from a suit of 
five or more, if you lield four originally, you should 
play your liighest before the fourth round, even 
though the trick is already partner's. 

As it would otherwise block the suit. If the two 
highest of your four cards are in sequence, you should 
begin to unblock by the second round, unless your 
partner's lead clearly showed only a four-card suit. 

4. In partner's suit, originally opened by him "with 
the Ace, you should return an honor, if you hold 
one, regardless of the number you originally held of 
the suit. 

His suit being of five or more. If you return a low 
card, he will be obliged to play his highest, probably, 
and thus be deprived of the command of the suit and 
the ability to get in again, and your high card will most 
likely block it, while a high card returned would 
strengthen and clear the suit for him. This is contrary 
to the usual rule of return leads, but it is more impor- 
4 



50 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



tant, in this case, to avoid blocking than it is to indi- 
cate number, or to reserve j'our own strength. 

Otiier occasions and opportunities for unblocking 
will occur to the skilful player, who should always 
be on his guard against spoiling his partner's suit by 
retaining the command of it at the wrong time. 

Thus, near the end of the hand, on partner's King, 
third hand sliould play Ace, from Ace and one low, in 
a suit not before opened, and return the low, unless he 
can give the lead again to partner in another suit, or 
partner has the long trumps. So whenever remaining 
with King, and but one low of partner's five-card suit, 
you should play King, even though the trick is ah-eady 
partner's, or was trumped by an opponent, unless you 
can surely give partner the lead again. 

In trumps, as before remarked, there is no danger 
of blockinor. 



VIII. 

Fourth Hand. 

The play of the fourth hand is usually compara- 
tively simple, except wliere the position of the cards 
calls for some special play, as refusing to take the 
trick against you, so as to place the lead to your or 
partner's advantage, or tlirowing a high card to get 
rid of taking a subsequent trick for the same reason, 
or to avoid blocking partner's suit. 

The general rules are as follows : 

Take the trick if it is against you, if you can, as 
cheaply as possible; otherwise, play alow card. 

The lowest, of course, unless calling for trumps. 
When, by refraining from taking the trick you can 
force the lead from, or through, a minor tenace up 
to the major tenace, and can gain a trick by so doing, 
it is justifiable to pass it. 

If a suit opened late in the hand must evidently be 
your partner's strong suit, you, holding King and one 
low, should play King, even though the trick is already 
taken by partner with a lower card, and return the low 
to avoid blocking it. 

If, by winning a trick, you give up your only card of 
re-entry, which is reasonably certain lo take on the next 
round, and enable you to bring in your or partner's suit. 



52 A Practical Guide to Whist- 



after trumps are out, it is justifiable to refuse to win 
the first round. 

But it is generally unsafe to refuse to win a certain 
trick, even though with a fair chance of gaining by it 
in the end. There should be a reasonable certainly of 
it to justify the play. 

When, at fourth hand, you have none of the suit 
led, trump the trick, if it is against you ; otherwise, 
discard. 

But do not play the last trump on second round of 
an opponent's suit, as before explained. Occasionally 
it is justifiable to refuse to trump, if by so doing a good 
hand is spoiled, and sure tricks lost which could be 
gained by abstaining ; but good judgment must guide 
the player in such cases. Thus, with four trumps and 
a strong suit hand, to be forced to trump might de- 
stroy the opportunity of exhausting trumps, and estab- 
lishing and bringing in the suits, when, by passing 
one trick, that might be accomplished. So, fourth 
hand may find it advantageous to play the "grand 
coupf^^ when he holds five trumps, and there is danger 
of his being obliged to take the eleventh trick and lead 
from a major, up to a minor, tenace. This may be done 
by undertrumping a trick already trumped by partner, 
or by taking a trick already taken by him, when you can 
throw the lead into his hand again. 

With only three trumps or less, it is never right to 
refuse to trump, at fourth hand, a trick which is against 
you. 



IX. 

The Play of Sequences. Drawing Inferences, 
Etc. 

the play of sequences. 

Cards in sequence are always played, at second, 
third, and fourth hand, in their regular numerical 
order of progression, lowest first ; generally led, on 
weak-suit leads and late leads, in the reverse order, 
highest first, except as specified in the directions for 
leading. 

In original leads, and second leads from long suits, 
the necessity of indicating number of suit led from has 
caused the adoption of certain conventional ploys, as 
given above. And this rule applies only to weak suits, 
or late leads, as stated. The proper play of all cards, 
high and low, is important, and '' false cards " should 
never be played ; that is, cards which give false indi- 
cations. Thus, having Queen, Knave, and low, to play 
Queen at third hand is equivalent to statintr that you 
have not the Knave, or you would have played it ; or, 
having Four and Three, to play the Four at second 
hand instead of the Three (barring a trump signal) is 
deceiving partner improperly. 



54 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



DRAWING INFERENCES. 

The exercise of skill and good judgment in Whist 
depends upon tlie fulness imd accuracy of the play- 
er's inferences from the cards as they are played. 
And this again, of course, depends upon correct 
play. Every card has a story to tell, and the better 
the understanding and recollection of it the better 
the opportunities for skilful play. 

The cards as played should be carefully noted, and 
inference drawn at the time as to their meaning. It 
is not practicable to give all the inferences that may 
properly be drawn from play, but the most impor- 
tant ones from original leads of high cards are given 
in the following : 



TABLE OF LEADS AND INFERENCES. 



LEAD OF 

Ace, then King, 



Ace, then Queen, 
Ace, then Knave, 
Ace, then Ten, 



INDICATES IN LEADER'S HAND 

(Ace, King, and) three or 

more lower, not including 

Queen. 
(Ace, Queen), Knave, and 

one low. 
(Ace), Queen, (Knave), and 

two low. 
(Ace), Queen, Knave, (Ten), 

and perhaps one or more 

low. 



The Play of Sequences, Etc. 



55 



LEAD OF 

Ace, then Nine, 



Ace, then low, 



King, then Ace, 
King, then Queen, 



King, then Knave, 



King, then Ten, 
King, then Nine, 
King, then low. 



Queen, then Ace, 
Queen, then King, 

Queen, then Knave, 
Queen, then Ten, 



INDICATES IN LEADER'S HAND 

(Ace), Queen, Ten, (Nine), 
and one or more low, or 
(Ace), Knave, Ten, (Nine), 
and one or more low. 

(Ace), two higher, and one 
or more lower, than sec- 
ond card led. 

(Ace, King), two low. 

Ace, (King, Queen), one 
low, or (King, Queen), 
two low. 

Ace, (King), Queen, (Knave), 
or (King), Queen, (Knave), 
and one low. 

(King), Queen, Knave,(Ten). 

(King), Queen, Ten, (Nine). 

(King), Queen, and one 
higher than second card 
led. 

(Ace), King, (Queen), and 
two low. 

Ace, (King, Queen), and 
three or more low, or 
(King, Queen), and three 
or more low. 

(Queen, Knave), Ten, and 
one lower, not the Nine. 

(Queen), Knave, (Ten),, and 
two or more lower, not 
including the Nine. 



56 



A Practical Guide to Whist. 



LEAD OF INDICATES IN LEADER'S HAND 

Queen, then Nine, (Queen), Knave, Ten, (Nine), 

and perhaps one or more 
low. 
^^"g; (Qycen), and one high- 
er, and one or more lower 
than second card led. 
Ace, (King), Queen, (Knave), 
and one low, or (King), 
Queen, (Knave), and two 
low. 
Ace, King, (C^een, Knave), 
and two or more low, or 
^j"g> (Queen, Knave), 
and three or more low. 
One lower. Only led in 

weak suits. 
(King), Knave, (Ten), and 

one or more low. 
King, (Queen), Knave, (Ten), 

and one or more low. 
King, Queen, (Knave, Ten), 

and two or more low. 
King, Knave, (Ten), and one 
or more low. 

When the inferences are in the alternative, the 
cards held and the fall of the cards will show which 
is correct. 

Among other important points to be noted and 
remembered are : 



Queen, then low, 
Knave, then King, 

Knave, then Queen, 

Knave, then lower, 
Ten, then King, 
Ten, then Queen, 
Ten, then Knave, 
Ten, then low. 



The Play of Sequences, Etc. 57 



1. The number of trumps played. 

2. The number of your long suit played. 

3. The number of times a suit goes round, and 
the renouncing, if any, on third round, so as to be 
able to place the remaining cards. 

4. The trump signal, if given. 

5. The first discard of each j)layer. 

One of the first things to be noticed in a hand, and 
remembered, is the numher of times a suit goes round, 
and the renouncing, if any, on the third round, so as to 
be able to place the cards remaining. 



X. 

The Discard. 

Not having any of the suit led, the player, unless 
attempting to take the trick by trumping, must dis- 
card, or throw away a card of another suit. The 
proper play of the discard is of great importance, 
both on account of the information given by it, and 
for the strengthening and protection of the hand. 
The first discard is almost of equal significance with 
an original lead, and later discards require consider- 
able skill and judgment. 

The general rules are as follows : 

1. If opponents have not indicated a superiority in 
trumps, the first discard should be from your weak- 
est suit. 

And the lowest card, of course, unless calling for 
trumps. Indication of superiority in trumps is given 
by a trump call or lead. In the absence of such indi- 
cation you should preserve your strong suit intact, as 
long as there is a chance of establishing it. Even if 
the suit is very long or very poor, it is absolutely nec- 
essary to indicate your weakest suit by the first discard. 

2. If opponents have indicated trump superiority, 
the first discard should be from your best protected 
suit. 



The Discard. 59 



There is very little chance of being able to establish 
your long suit, in this case, and the best defence you 
can make is to keep high cards guarded in suits which 
are probably opponents' long ones. The best protected 
suit is that in which you are most likely to take a trick, 
and almost always your longest suit, so that the first 
discard in this case should show your partner your best 
suit, and guide his play. 

3. Discards, after the first, must be made according 
to the hand, to protect and strengthen it as well as 
possible. 

It is impossible to lay down any general rule for sec- 
ond and later discards. If the first discard was from 
the weakest suit, it is common and proper to continue 
to discard from it, even to discarding honors in it, if 
there is a reasonable certainty of establishing and 
bringing in your or partner's suit. But, as that is often 
doubtful, it is not usually prudent to uuguard honors, 
and the discards must be made with regard to the 
hand, and the best protection of it all round. If the 
first discard was from the strong suit, on opponents' 
declaration of trump superiority, the subsequent dis- 
cards mu&t also depend upon the hand, care being 
especially necessary to retain strength in opponents' 
suits, as the best defence possible. The second discard, 
therefore, indicates nothing more than that it was the 
best thing for your hand under all the circumstances, 
and should not be taken as pointing out any special 
strength in the suit. On the contrary, it is usually and 
properly made from a suit in which you have no 
strength at all, and in which it is impossible to take a 
trick. 



6o A Practical Guide to Whist. 



4. Do not unguard an honor, or blank an Ace. 

The proper card to discard, of course, is the lowest, 
unless calling for trumps. Honors even in weak suits 
may be useful to take tricks in opponents' suits and 
should be kept guarded, unless it is certain that they 
can be safely thrown away for the sake of making low 
cards in your long suit. An Ace should not be left 
bare, as it might block partner's suit, or force you to 
take a trick, where it would be advantageous to allow 
your partner to win and take the lead, if possible. At 
the end of the hand, however, it may be necessary to 
blank an Ace. 

It is sometimes necessary to discard an honor in part- 
ner's long suit, to get rid of the command where there 
is danger of your being compelled to take a trick away 
from him and be left without a card of the suit to 
return to him, so that his last cards are wasted. 

When you have to discard from a suit of which you 
have complete control, discard the highest. The dis- 
card of the second best card of a suitindicatesthat you 
have no more. A discard (after the first) from a suit, 
in which you have a major tenace sometimes is resorted 
to, to induce left-hand opponent to lead the suit. But 
this is not a high order of whist strategy, and cannot be 
recommended. 

5. Do not discard a singleton early in the game. 

As it may be needed to lead to partner's long suit, 
or one in which he holds a winning card. But when 
he is strong in trumps, and also, later in the game, 
when the situation is better known, it is justifiable, 
depending on the cards held. 



XL 

The Management of Trumps. 

The proper management of trumps, and the de- 
termination of the right time to lead them, from 
moderate strength, is the most important part of the 
play of tlie hand, and requires the most skill and 
judgment on the part of the player. The rules for 
leading from strength are generally to be taken with 
some allowances for peculiar conditions, and hands ; 
and those for leading from moderate strength upon 
the establishment of a suit, still more so. 

The rules for the play of trumps in various con- 
tingencies of the hand have been already given 
under their appropriate heads. But some points 
have either not been mentioned, or only mentioned 
incidentally, and are of sufficient importance to re- 
quire separate treatment, even at the risk of some 
repetition. 

THE TRUMP SIGNAL AND ECHO. 

When very strong in trumps, give the trump 
signal. 

By playing, unnecessarily, a higher before a lower 
card. Thus, having no occasion to attempt to take the 
trick, play the Three before the Two. Or with two 



62 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



high cards in sequence (not the highest), at third hand, 
play the higher before the lower, in attempting to take 
the trick. Or at second hand, from Queen, Knave, and 
one low ; Knave, Ten, and one low ; or Ten, Nine, and 
one low, play the higher of the two in sequence, unless 
on a higher card led. The play of the lower of any of 
these sequences, followed by a lower card, must not be 
mistaken for the trump signal, as it is proper second 
hand play. 

An early signal for a trump lead should not be given 
without such strength in trumps as to insure the win- 
ning of the odd card. With six or more, it is always 
right to call ; but with five, only when an honor is 
also held, and at least one fair suit. With four trumps, 
two honors, and a strong hand, it is also justifiable. 
The responsibility for the hand is properly placed upon 
one who gives an early trump call, and it imposes on 
his partner the duty of immediate and absolute obedi- 
ence to it. For that reason it should never be given 
without suflScient warrant for it, as before stated. A 
late signal has not the same obligatory force as an early 
one, and may be given when, in the judgment of the 
player, a trump lead would be advantageous, either on 
account of the ascertained position of the cards or the 
reasonable chance of bringing in an established suit. 
Still, it should only be given with good judgment when 
the position justifies it, and should, of course, be at once 
obeyed, although the obligation is not so imperative as 
on an original call. 
With four or more trumps, echo partner's trump 
call, or lead. 

Even though very low ones. The information as to 
the number held is the important thing here. 



The Management of Trumps. 63 



The echo is given in precisely the same way as the 
call, and may be made in plain suits, or trumps. The 
same information is also given in return leads in trumps 
where there is no opportunity to echo, as before stated. 

If partner by his play shows four or more trumps, 
give the echo, or signal, if you hold four or more. 

As by leading trumps, or refusing to trump a doubt- 
ful trick at second hand, or by leading a card to force 
you, opponents not having indicated trump strength. 

OTHER TRUMP PLAYS. 

If you are strong, or partner is weak, in trumps, 
force him if he has renounced a plain suit. 

If in doubt as to whether he is strong or not, j'ou, 
being weak, should not force him, unless : 
a. Opponents have indicated trump strength. 
6. You can establish a cross-ruff. 

c. One trick only is needed to save or win the game. 

d. You have a good advantage in the score, and part- 

ner has not led or called for trumps, although 
having had opx^ortunity to do so. 

If you are Aveak in trumps, do not force partner. 

Unless you know him to be weak also, and except in 
the cases last above mentioned, when in doubt as to 
his being strong or weak. A too rigid adherence to 
this rule is often expensive, and good judgment, in view 
of the situation, frequently finds it advantageous to 
force partner, or, at least, to give him the option of 
trumping or not. 



64 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



Lead a thirteener, if you have good trumps, but 
not the best one. 

Especially if fourth hand has the best trump. 

Do not draw the last trump from an opponent, 
you having the only other, and winning trump, if 
you have no established suit, and cannot lead part- 
ner's established suit. 

Especially if you must lead an established suit of 
an adversary. It is better to lead your or partner's 
long suit, to force out the losing trump, as you thus 
help to clear the suit, and may bring it in with the last 
trump, which you might not have been able to do, if 
you had led the trump. 

But if partner has an established suit, and a sure 
card of re-entry in a ruit which j^oucan lead, draw the 
losing trump, and lead to his card of re-entry. 

Lead from three trumps, or less, to stop a cross-ruff. 

This rule has already been given. The proper card 
to lead is given in the rules for leads from weak suits, 
to wit : the highest, except when with King, or Queen, 
and two low. 

If with a strong hand, in three plain suits, you 
hold but one trump, lead the trump singleton. 

Especially if partner dealt. Two or more rounds 
may possibly be drawn out, in one of which opponents 
will probably play two trumps to one, and the chance 
of your winning-cards being trumped will be dimin- 
ished. 



The Management of Trumps. 63 



If strong in trumps, do not trump a doubtful trick. 

It would be waste of strength. Your trumps are of 
more value to exhaust opponents' trumps, and bring in 
your or partner's suit. But with very great strength, as 
six or more, and sometimes with five, and a very strong 
suit hand, it is proper to trump in, and lead trumps. 
With only four trumps and a fair hand, it is wrong to 
trump a doubtful trick. 

With three trumps, or less, trump freely. 

You cannot exhaust opponents' trumps, and yours 
are likely to be drawn by them unless used in ruliing. 
The occasion for the play usually comes at second 
hand. At third hand, on partner's original lead of an 
honor, if second hand has not covered, you should not 
trump, even if you know that fourth hand has a higher 
honor, as such a lead is usually for the purpose of forc- 
ing it out and clearing the suit, except in the case of a 
cross-ruff, and when evidently led for a force, or when 
the trick wins or saves the game, or when the suit can 
go round but once. 

Finesse deeply in trumps. 

To retain the command as late and long as possible. 
But not on partner's original lead of trumps, except 
with Ace, Queen, or Ace, Queen, Knave, etc., as it is 
important to make sure of two rounds. On a later lead 
of trumps, or opponents' lead, deep finessing is advis- 
able, unless it is desirable to stop the lead at once to 
continue a ruff. With Ace, Knave, etc., if an honor 
was turned on the right, finesse the Knave, on part- 
ner's lead of a low trump. 
5 



6(> A Practical Guide to Whist. 



Holding the best and fourth best trumps, right- 
hand opponent having second and third best, do not 
overtrump the third best at the eleventh trick. 

So as to keep the lead through your tenace, as before 
explained. 

With five trumps, be on the lookout against being 
caught with a superfluous trump. * 

So as not to be obUged to win the eleventh trick, and 
lead from a major tenace. Especially when right hand 
opponent is also strong in trumps. 

Do not trump, with the last trump, the second 
round of an opponent's suit. 

As it would probably leave his partner with one of the 
suit to lead back to him, and enable him to bring in his 
last cards of the suit. The next round will probably 
exhaust his partner. If he has another card of re-entry, 
it will make no difEerence, anyway. But if you can 
bring in your or partner's suit, or both, and pre- 
vent opponents from getting in again, of course it is 
best to trump. 



XII. 

In General. 

It is not so difficult as is often supposed for a be- 
ginner to acquire a sufficient knowledge of the rules 
for practical use. If he will learn thorouglily the rules 
for leading the five highest cards, and bear in mind 
that the fourth best is led instead of the lowest, he 
in-ay, by frequent practice, following the rules so 
learned, and with constant attention to the cards 
played, in time become a good player ; that is, be able 
to remember what cards have been played. 

The beginner should use the language of the game 
in its simplest and plainest way until he becomes a 
master of it, when lie may perhaps take liberties 
with it, just as the master of any other language 
may, without obscuring its meaning; wliicli is a 
very different thing from the broken and senseless 
jargon of one who does not understand it. 

One great difficulty is that very many who wish to 
learn to play will not devote any time or attention 
to studying the rudiments, but prefer to pick up 
from others, only a little less ignorant than them- 
selves, a mass of misinformation, and soon arrive 
at the conclusion that they "know it all," and 



68 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



resent any intimation that tbey may be mistaken. 
One form of this misinformation is seen in the per- 
sistency with which some players, who are beginning 
to gain some little idea of the purposes of the game, 
always lead trumps from weak or strong trump suits 
indifferently, '' to protect their long suit." Another 
curious notion, quite common among a certain class, 
is tluit an original discard should always be from 
the strongest suit, ^ ' so as to indicate it to partner ! " 
But 2)erhaps the most common fault is that of con- 
sidering one's hand alone, and paying little or no 
regard to partner's. Even good players are guilty 
of this error, but not so much so now as under the 
old method of play. 

The object of the new system (Tf play is to utilize 
both hands to the best advantage, so as to enable 
each to play twenty-six cards instead of thirteen, as 
nearly as may be possible. To effect this it is, of 
course, necessary to play according to the rules, and 
avoid giving false information. The maxim is old 
and trite, perhaps, but it is true : that it is more 
important to give information to partner than to 
deceive your adversaries. False cards, therefore, 
should never be played when there is any possibility 
of their misleading your partner. Late in the hand, 
when there is no danger of deceiving him, or when 
to do so can do no liarm, it is justifiable to play false 
cards in order to mislead an adversary. 

The beginner should arrange his hand, and hold it 



In General. 69 



spread open in sucli a way that a glance at it now 
and then will show it all to him, and in the mean- 
time devote his whole attention to tlie table, noting 
each card as it is played, and drawing inferences 
from it. In time he will come to remember all the 
cards played, and their meaning, so that the hands 
of the other players, or, at least, the essential features 
of their hands, will be revealed to him. Then comes 
the opportunity for skill and science, and the 
interest greatly increases. A mere knowledge of 
the common rules for play is only the mechanical 
outfit of the player, somewhat in the same way as a 
knowledge of the moves of the pieces is to a chess- 
player. Skill consists in the quickness and accuracy 
of the inferences drawn, the selection of the best 
cards to play or lead so as to make the most of the 
strength of the player's side, or defeat or obstruct 
that of opponents ; to take advantage of position, 
and make the most of every opportunity. The 
beauty of the game is that, no matter how far a 
player advances in his knowledge and skill, he con- 
tinues to take pleasure in each step, and yet sees 
that the possibilities ahead are immense, if not abso- 
lutely inexhaustible. It is only the very ignorant 
player who thinks he knows all that is to be 
learned in the science of whist. 

The most important thing is practice, steady and 
frequent practice. Fortunately, the fondness for 
this best of games is spreading, and the opportuni- 



70 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



ties for practice are steadily increasing. Learn 
thoroughly the few principal rules (omitting the 
exceptions at first, which can be studied later as 
occasion arises), and then practise often, and with 
close attention to the play. Do not allow your atten- 
tion to be distracted from the table. Do not talk 
to the players or to outsiders while the game is going 
on, but watch and notice the play. 

Do not by any word or gesture give any indication 
as to the character of your hand. Emphatic play, 
banging the cards down on table, is in bad taste, and 
very unpleasant for those with whom you are play- 
ing. Hesitation before playing is also bad, as it is 
sure to give valuable information to opponents, and 
can do no good. It is true that many beginners are 
perplexed about their play, and stop and try to 
think what has been played before. But it rarely is 
of any use, for in nearly every case, unless one 
knows instinctively, no amount of brain- harrowing 
will recall previous plays, and the result is equally 
poor play added to the telltale hesitation. Watch 
the table, and in time you will come to notice and 
remember instinctively, not perhaps every card that 
has been played, but, what is much more important, 
what cards have ,iot been played, and in whose hands 
they are. 

Finally, keep your temper whatever luck befalls 
you, and never throw your hand down before it is 
played out. 



THE LAWS OF WHIST. 

Verbatim from the Club Code. 

*4{.* The English Club Code is given here^ as it is the one most 
generally used and recognized as authoritative. The method oj 
scoring may be changed^ if desired, without affecting its appli- 
cation in all other respects. 



THE RUBBER. 

1. The rubber is the best of three games. If the 
first two games be won by the same players, tjie 
third game is not played. 

SCORING. 

2. A game consists of five points. Each trick, 
above six, counts one point. 

3. Honors, i.e.^ Ace, King, Queen, and Knave of 
trumps, are thus reckoned : 

If a player and his partner, either separately or 
conjointly, hold — 

I. The four honors, they score four points. 
II. Any three honors, they score two points. 
III. Only two honors, they do not score. 

4. Those players, wdio, at the commencement of a 
deal, are at the score of four, cannot score honors. 



72 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



5. The penalty for a revoke* takes precedence of 
all other scores. Tricks score next. Honors last. 

6. Honors, unless claimed before the trump card 
of the following deal is turned up, cannot be scored. 

7. To score honors is not sufficient ; they must be 
called at tlie end of the hand ; if so called, they may 
be scored at any time during the game. 

8. The winners gain — 

I. A treble, or game of three points, when their 

adversaries have not scored. 

n. A double, or game of two points, when their 

adversaries have scored less than three. 

HI. A single, or game of one point, when their 

adversaries have scored three, or four. 

9. The winners of the rubber gain two points 
(commonly called the rubber points), in addition to 
the value of their games. 

10. Should the rubber have consisted of three 
games, the value of the losers' game is deducted 
from the gross number of points gained by their 
opponents. 

11. If an erroneous score be proved, such mistake 
can be corrected prior to the conclusion of the game 
in which it occurred, and such game is not concluded 
until the trump card of the following deal has been 
turned up. 

12. If an erroneous score, affecting the amount of 

* Vide Law 72. 



The Laws of Whist. 73 



the rubber,* be proved, such mistake can be rectified 
at any time during the rubber. 

CUTTING. 

13. The ace is tlie lowest card. 

14. In all cases, every one must cut from the same 
pack. 

15. Should a player expose more than one card, he 
must cut again. 

FORMATION OF TABLE. 

16. If there are more than four candidates, the 
players are selected by cutting : those first in the 
room having the preference. The four who cut the 
lowest cards play first, and again cut to decide on 
partners ; the two low^est play against the two 
higliest ; the lowest is the dealer, who has choice of 
cards and seats, and, having once made his selection, 
must abide by it. 

17. When there are more than six candidates, 
those w^ho cut the two next lowest cards belong- 
to the table, which is complete with six players ; 
on the retirement of one of those six players, the 
candidate who cut the next lowest card has a prior 
right to any aftercomer to enter the table. 

* e.g. If a single is scored by mistake for a double or treble, or 

vice versa. 



74 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



CUTTING CARDS OF EQUAL VALUE. 

18. Two players cutting cards of equal value,* 
unless such cards are tlie two highest, cut again ; 
should they be the two lowest, a fresh cut is 
necessary to decide which of tliose two deals. t 

19. Three players cutting cards of equal value 
cut again ; should the fourth (or remaining) card 
be the highest, the two lowest of the new cut are 
partners, the lower of those two the dealer ; should 
the fourth card be the lowest, the two highest are 
partners, the original lowest the dealer. J 

CUTTING OUT. 

20. At the end of a rubber, should admission be 

* In cutting for partners. 

t Examiile. A three, two sixes, and a knave are cut. The two 
sixes cut again, and the lowest plays with the three. Suppose, at the 
second cut, the two sixes cut a king and a queen, the queen plays 
with the three. 

If at the second cut a lower card than the three is cut, the three 
still retains its privileges as original low, and has the deal and 
choice of cards and seats. 

X Example. Three aces and a two are cut. The three aces cut 
again. The two is the original high, and plays with the highest of 
the next cut. 

Suppose, at the second cut, two more twos and a king are drawn 
The king plays with the original two, and the other pair of twos cut 
again for deal. 

Suppose instead, the second cut to consist of an ace and two 
knaves. The two knaves cut again, and the highest plays with the 
two. 



The Laws of Whist. 75 



claimed by any one, or by two candidates, he who 
has, or they w^ho have, played a greater number of 
consecutive rubbers than the others is, or are, out ; 
but when all have played the same number, they must 
cut to decide upon the outgoers ; the highest are out. 

ENTRY AND RE-ENTRY. 

21. A candidate wishing to enter a table must 
declare such intention prior to any of the players 
having cut a card, either for the purpose of com- 
mencing a fresh rubber, or of cutting out. 

22. In the formation of fresh tables, those can- 
didates who have neither belonged to nor played at 
any other table have the prior right of entry ; the 
others decide their right of admission by cutting. 

23. Any one quitting a table prior to the conclu- 
sion of a rubber, may, with consent of the other three 
players, appoint a substitute in his absence during 
that rubber. 

24. A player cutting into one table, whilst belong- 
ing to another, loses his right* of re-entry into that 
latter, and takes his chance of cutting in, as if he 
were a fresh candidate.! 

25. If any one break up a table, the remaining 
players have the prior right to him of entry into any 
other, and should there not be sufficient vacancies 

'•'i.e., his prior right. 

t And last in the room {vide Law 16). 



76 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



at such other table to admit all those candidates, 
they settle their precedence by cutting. 

SHUFFLING. 

26. The pack must neither be shuffled below the 
table nor so that the face of any card be seen. 

27. The pack must not be shuffled during the play 
of the hand. 

28. A pack, having been played with, must neither 
be shuffled, by dealing it into packets, nor across the 
table. 

29. Each player has a right to shuffle, once only, 
except as provided by Rule 32, prior to a deal, after 
a false cut,* or when a new dealt has occurred. 

30. The dealer's partner must collect the cards for 
the ensuing deal, and has the first right to shuffle 
that pack, 

31. Each player, after shuffling, must place the 
cards, properly collected and face downwards, to the 
left of the player about to deal. 

32. The dealer has always the right to shuffle 
last; but should a card or cards be seen during 
his shuffling or whilst giving the pack to be cut, 
he may be compelled to re-shuffle. 

THE DEAL. 

33. Each player deals in his turn ; the right of 
dealing goes to the left. 

* Vide Law 34. t Vide Law 37. 



The Laws of Whist. 77 



34. The player on the dealer's right cuts the pack, 
and in dividing it, must not leave fewer than four 
cards in either packet ; if in cutting, or in replacing 
one of the two packets on the other, a card be 
exposed,* or if there be any confusion of the cards, 
or a doubt as to the exact place in which the pack 
was divided, there must be a fresh cut. 

35. When a player, whose duty it is to cut, has 
once separated tlie pack, he cannot alter his inten- 
tion ; he can neither re-slmfile nor re-cut the cards. 

36. When the pack is cut, should the dealer shuffle 
the cards, he loses his deal. 

A NEW DEAL. 

87. There must be a new deal t — 

I, If, during a deal, or during the play of a hand, 

the pack be proved incorrect or imperfect. 
II. If any card, excepting the last, be faced in the 
pack. 

38. If, whilst dealing, a card be exposed by the 
dealer or his partner, should neither of the adver- 
saries have touclied the cards, the latter can claim a 
new deal; a card exposed by either adversary gives 
that claim to tlie dealer, provided that his partner 
has not touched a card ; if a new deal does not take 
place, the exposed card cannot be called. 

* After the two packets have been re-united, Law 38 comes into 
operation. 

t i.e., the same dealer must deal again. Vide also Laws 47 and 50. 



78 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



39. If, during dealing, a player touch any of his 
cards, the adversaries may do the same, without los- 
ing their privilege of claiming a new deal, should 
chance give them such option. 

40. If, in dealing, one of the last cards be exposed, 
and the dealer turn up the trump before there is 
reasonable time for his adversaries to decide as to a 
fresh deal, they do not thereby lose their privilege. 

41. If a player, whilst dealing, look at the trump 
card, his adversaries have a right to see it, and may 
exact a new deal. 

42. If a player take into the hand dealt to him 
a card belonging to the other pack, the adversaries, 
on discovery of the error, may decide whether they 
will have a fresh deal or not. 

A MISDEAL. 

43. A misdeal loses the deal.* 

44. It is a misdeal t — 

I. Unless the cards are dealt into four packets, one 
at a time in regular rotation, beginning- with 
the player to the dealer's left. 
II. Should the dealer place the last {i.e., the trump) 
card, face downwards, on his own, or any 
other pack. 
III. Should the trump card not come in its regular 
order to the dealer; but he does not lose his 
deal if the pack be proved imperfect. 

* Except as provided in Laws 45 and 50. 
t Vide also Law 36. 



The Laws of Whist. 79 



IV. Should a player have fourteen ^ cards, and either 
of the other three less than thirteen, f 
V. Should the dealer, under an impression that he 
has made a mistake, either count the cards on 
the table, or the remainder of the pack. 
VI. Should the dealer deal two cards at once, or two 
cards to the same hand, and then deal a third ; 
but if, prior to dealing that third card, the 
dealer can, by altering the position of one card 
only, rectify such error, he may do so, except as 
provided by the second paragraph of this Law. 
VII. Should the dealer omit to have the pack cut to 
him, and the adversaries discover the error, 
prior to the trump card being turned up, and 
before looking at their cards, but not after hav- 
ing done so. 

45. A misdeal does not lose the deal if, during the 
dealing, either of the adversaries touch the cards 
prior to the dealer's partner having done so, but 
should the latter have first interfered with the 
cards, notwithstanding either or both of the adver- 
saries have subsequently done the same, the deal is 
lost. 

46. Should three players have their right number 
of cards — the fourth have less than thirteen, and not 
discover such deficiency until he lias played any of 
his cards,! the deal stands good ; should he have 
played, he is as answerable for any revoke he may 

* Or more. 

t The pack being perfect. Vide Law 47. 

X i.e., until after he has played to the first trick. 



8o A Practical Guide to Whist. 



have made as if the missing card, or cards, had been 
in his hand ; ^ he may search the other pack for it, 
or them. 

47. If a }3ack, during or after a rubber, be proved 
incorrect or imperfect, such proof does not alter any- 
past score, game, or rubber ; that hand in which the 
imperfection was detected is null and void ; the 
dealer deals again. 

48. Any one dealing out of turn, or with the adver- 
sary's cards, may be stopped before the trump card 
is turned up, after which the game must proceed as 
if no mistake had been made. 

49. A player can neither shuffle, cut, nor deal for 
his partner, without the permission of liis oppo- 
nents. 

50. If the adversaries interrupt a dealer whilst 
dealing, either by questioning the score or asserting 
that it is not his deal, and fail to establish such 
claim, should a misdeal occur, he may deal again. 

51. Should a player take his partner's deal, and 
misdeal, the latter is liable to the usual penalty, and 
the adversary next in rotation to the player who 
ought to have dealt then deals. 

THE TRUMP CARD. 

52. The dealer, when it is his turn to play to the 
first trick, should take the trump card into his 

* Vide also Law 70, and Law 44, paragraph iv. 



The Laws of Whist. 



hand; if left on the table after the first trick be 
turned and quitted, it is liable to be called;^ his 
partner may at any time remind liim of the liability. 

53. After the dealer has taken the trump card into 
liis hand, it cannot be asked for;t a player naming 
it any time during the play of that hand is liable to 
have his highest or lowest trump called. J 

54. If the dealer take the trump card into his 
hand before it is his turn to play, he may be desired 
to lay it on the table; should he show a wrong card, 
this card may be called, as also a second, a third, 
etc., until the trump card be produced. 

55. If the dealer declare himself unable to recollect 
the trump card, his highest or lowest trump may be 
called at any time during that hand, and, unless it 
cause him to revoke, must be played ; the call may 
be repeated, but not changed, i.e.^ from highest to 
lowest, or vice versd^ until such card is played. 

CARDS LIABLE TO BE CALLED. 

56. All exposed cards are liable to be called, and 
must be left § on the table ; but a card is not an 
exposed card when dropped on the floor, or else- 
where below the table. 

* It is not usual to call the tramp card if left on the table, 
t Any one may inquire what the trump suit is, at any time. 
X In the manner described in Law 55. 
§ Face upwards. 

6 



82 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



The following are exposed * cards : 

I. Two or more cards played at once.f 
II. Any card dropped with its face upwards, or in 
any way exposed on or above the table, even 
though snatched up so quickly that no one can 
name it. 

57. If any one play to an imperfect trick the best 
card on the table, J or lead one which is a winning 
card as against his adversaries, and then lead again, § 
or play several such winning cards, one after the 
other, without waiting for his partner to play, the 
latter may be called on to win, if he can, the first or 
any other of those tricks, and tlie other cards thus 
improperly played are exposed cards. 

58. If a player, or players, under the impression 
that the game is lost — or won — or for other reasons 
— throw his or their cards on the table face upwards, 
such cards are exposed, and liable to be called, each 
player's by the adversary ; but should one player 
alone retain his hand, he cannot be forced to aban- 
don it. 

59. If all four players throw their cards on the 

* Detached cards (i.e., cards taken out of the hand but not 
dropped face upwards on the table, or dropped face downwards on 
the table) are only liable to be called, if named ; tide Law 60. 

t If two or more cards are played at once, the adversaries have a 
right to call which they please to the trick in course of play and 
afterwards to call the others. 

t And then lead without waiting for his partner to play. 

§ Without waiting for his partner to play. 



The Laws of Whist. 83 



table face upwards, the hands are abandoned; and 
no one can again take up his cards. Should this 
general exhibition show that the game might have 
been saved, or won, neither claim can be entertained, 
unless a revoke be established. The revoking players 
are then liable to the following penalties : they can- 
not under any circumstances win the game by the 
result of that hand, and the adversaries may add 
three to their score, or deduct three from that of the 
revoking players. 

60. A card detached from the rest of the hand so 
as to be named is liable to be called; but should 
the adversary name a wrong card, he is liable to 
have a suit called when he or his partner have the 
lead.* 

61. If a player who has rendered himself liable to 
have the highest or lowest of a suit called, fail to 
play as desired, or if when called on to lead one 
suit, lead another, having in his hand one or more 
cards of that suit demanded, he incurs the penalty 
of a revoke. 

62. If any player lead out of turn, his adversaries 
may either call the card erroneously led — or may call 
a suit from him or his partner when it is next the 
turn of either of tliemf to lead. 

* i.e., the first time that side obtains the lead. 

+ i.e., the penahy of calling a suit must be exacted from which- 
ever of them next first obtains the lead. It follows that if the 
player who leads out of turn is the partuer of the person who ought 



84 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



63. If any player lead out of turn, and the other 
three have followed him, the trick is complete, and 
the error cannot be rectified ; but if only the second, 
or the second and third, have played to the false 
lead, their cards, on discovery of the mistake, are 
taken back ; there is no penalty against any one, 
excepting the original offender, whose card may be 
called — or he, or his partner, when either of them * 
has next the lead, may be compelled to play any 
suit demanded by the adversaries. 

64. In no case can a player be compelled to play a 
card which would oblige him to revoke. 

65. The call of a card may be repeated t until such 
card has been played. 

66. If a player called on to lead a suit have none 
of it, the penalty is paid. 

CARDS PLAYED IN ERROR, OR NOT PLAYED TO 
A' TRICK. 

67. If the third hand played before the second, the 
fourth hand may play before his partner. 

68. Should the third hand not have played, and 
the fourth play before his partner, the latter may be 
called on to win, or not to win the trick. 

to have led, and a guit is called, it must be called at once from the 
right leader. If he is allowed to play as he pleases, the only penalty 
that remains is to call the card erroneously led. 

* e.e., whichever of them next first has the lead. 

t At every trick. 



The Laws of Whist. 85 



69. If any one omit playing to a former trick, 
and such error be not discovered until he has played 
to the next, the adversaries may claim a new deal ; 
should they decide that the deal stand good, the 
surplus card at the end of the hand is considered to 
have been played to the imperfect trick, but does 
not constitute a revoke therein. 

70. If any one play two cards to the same trick, or 
mix his trump, or other card, with a trick to whicli 
it does not properly belong, and the mistake be not 
discovered until the hand is played out, he is answer- 
able for all consequent revokes he may have made."^ 
If, during the play of the hand, the error be detected, 
the tricks may be counted face downwards, in order 
to ascertain whether there be among them a card 
too many : should this be the case they may be 
searched, and the card restored ; the player is, how- 
ever, liable for all revokes which he may have mean- 
while made. 

THE REVOKE. 

71. Is when a player, holding one or more cards of 
the suit led, plays a card of a different suit.f 

72. Tlie penalty for a revoke : 

I. Is at the option of the adversaries, who, at the 
end of the hand, may either take three tricks 
from the revoking player J — or deduct three 

* V4de also Law 46. 
t Vide also Law 61. 
X And add them to their own. 



86 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



points from his score— or add three to their 

own score ; 
II. Can be claimed for as many revokes as occur 

during the hand ; 
III. Is iapplicable only to the score of the game in 

whicli it occurs ; 
IV". Cannot be divided^ i.e., a player cannot add one 

or two to his own score and deduct one or two 

from the revoking player ; 
V. Takes precedence of every other score, e.g.^ the 

claimants two — their opponents nothing — the 

former add three to their score — and thereby 

win a ti-eble game, even should the latter have 

made thirteen tricks, and held four honors. 

73. A revoke is established, if the trick in which 
it occur be turned and quitted, i.e., the hand re- 
moved from that trick after it has been turned face 
downwards on the table — or if either the revoking 
player or liis partner, whether in his right turn or 
otherwise, lead or phay to the following trick. 

74. A player may ask his partner whether he has 
not a card of the suit which lie has renounced ; 
should the question be asked before the trick is 
turned and quitted, subsequent turning and quitting 
does not establish the revoke, and the error may be 
corrected, unless the question be answered in the 
negative, or unless the revoking player or his partner 
have led or played to the following trick. 

75. At the end of the luind, the claimants of a 
revoke may search all the tricks."^ 

* Vide Law 77. 



The Laws of Whist. 87 



76. If a player discover his mistake in time to save 
a revoke, the adversaries, whenever they think fit, 
may call the card thus played in error, or may require 
him to play his highest or lowest card to that trick 
in which he has renounced ; any player or players 
who have played after him may withdraw their cards 
and substitute others ; the cards withdrawn are not 
liable to be called. 

77. If a revoke be claimed, and the accused player 
or his partner mix the cards before they have been 
sufficiently examined by the adversaries, the revoke 
is established. The mixing of the cards only renders 
the proof of a revoke difficult, but does not prevent 
the claim, and possible establishment, of the penalty. 

78. A revoke cannot be claimed after the cards 
have been cut for the following deal. 

79. The revoking player and his partner may, 
under all circumstances, require the hand in which 
the revoke has been detected to be played out. 

80. If a revoke occur, be claimed and proved, bets 
on the odd trick, or on amount of score, must be 
decided by the actual state of the latter, after the 
penalty is paid. 

81. Should the players on both sides subject them- 
selves to the penalty of one or more revokes, neither 
can win the game ; each is punished at the discretion 
of his adversary."^ 

* In the manner prescribed in Law 72. 



88 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



82. In whatever way the penalty be enforced, 
under no circumstances can a player win the game by 
the result of the hand during which he has revoked ; 
he cannot score more than four. (Vide Rule 61.) 

CALLING FOR NEW CARDS. 

83. Any player (on paying for them) before, but 
not after, the pack be cut for the deal, may call for 
fresh cards. He must call for two new packs, of 
which the dealer takes his choice. 

GENERAL RULES. 

84. Where a player and his partner have an option 
of exacting from their adversaries one of two penal- 
ties, they should agree who is to make the election, 
but must not consult with one another which of the 
two penalties it is advisable to exact ; if they do so 
consult they lose their right ; ^ and if either of them, 
with or without consent of his partner, demand a 
penalty to which he is entitled, such decision is final. 

This rule does not apply in exacting the penalties for 
a revoke. Partners have then a right to consult. 

85. Any one during the play of a trick, or after 
the four cards are played, and before, but not after, 
they are touched for the purpose of gathering them 
together, may demand that the cards be placed be- 
fore their respective players. 

* To demand any penalty. 



The Laws of Whist. 89 



86. If any one, prior to his partner playing, should 
call attention to the trick — either by saying that it 
is his, or by naming his card, or, without being 
required so to do, by drawing it toward him — the 
adversaries may require that opponent's partner to 
play the highest or lowest of the suit then led, or to 
win or lose ^ the trick. 

87. In all cases where a penalty has been incurred, 
the offender is bound to give reasonable time for the 
decision of his adversaries. 

88. If a bystander make any remark which calls 
the attention of a player or players to an oversight 
affecting the score, he is liable to be called on, by 
the players only, to pay the stakes and all bets on 
that game or rubber. 

89. A bystander, by agreement among the players, 
may decide any question. 

90. A card or cards torn or marked must be either 
replaced by agreement, or new cards called at the 
expense of the table. 

91. Any player may demand to see the last trick 
turned, and no more. Under no circumstances can 
more than eight cards be seen during the play of the 
hand, viz. : the four cards on the table which have 
not been turned and quitted, and the last trick 
turned. 

* i.e., refrain from winning. 



ETIQUETTE OF WHIST. 

The following rules belong to the established Eti- 
quette of Whist. They are not called laws, as it is 
difficult — ^in some cases impossible — to apply any 
penalty to their infraction, and the only remedy is 
to cease to play with players who habitually disregard 
them. 

Two packs of cards are invariably used at Clubs : 
if possible this should be adhered to. 

Any one, having the lead and several winning 
cards to play, should not draw a second card out of 
his hand until his partner has played to the first 
trick, such act being a distinct intimation that the 
former has played a winning card. 

No intimation whatever, by word or gesture, should 
be given by a player as to the state of his hand, or 
of the game.* 

A player who desires the cards to be placed, or 
who demands to see the last trick, t should do it for 
liis own information only, and not in order to invite 
the attention of his partner. 

- The question "Who dealt ? " is irregular, and if asked should 
not be answered. 

+ Or who asks what the trump suit is. 



Etiquette of Whist. 91 



No player should object to refer to a bystander 
who professes himself uninterested in the game, and 
able to decide any disputed question of facts; as to 
who played any particular card — whether honors 
were claimed though not scored, or vice mrsci — etc., 
etc. 

It is unfair to revoke purposely ; having made a 
revoke, a player is not justified in making a second 
in order to conceal the first. 

Until the players have made such bets as they 
wish, bets should not be made with bystanders. 

Bystanders should make no remark, neither should 
they by word or gesture give any intimation of the 
state of the game until concluded and scored, nor 
should they walk round the table to look at the 
different hands. 

No one should look over the hand of a player 
against whom he is betting. 

DUMMY 

Is played by three players. 

One hand, called Dummy's, lies exposed on the 
table. 

The laws are the same as those of Whist, with the 
following exceptions : 

I. Durmny deals at the commencement of each 

rubbei-. 
II. Dummy is not liable to the penalty for a revoke, 



92 A Practical Guide to Whist. 



as his adversaries see his cards : should he * re- 
voke and the error not be discovered until the 
trick is turned and quitted, it stands good.t 
III. Dummy being blind and deaf, his Partner is not 
liable to any penalty for an error whence he 
can gain no advantage. Thus, he may expose 
some, or all of his cards, or may declare that 
he has the game, or trick, etc., without incur- 
ring any penalty ; if, however, he lead from 
Dummy's hand when he should lead from his 
own, or vice versd, a suit may be called from 
the hand which ought to have led. 

DOUBLE DUMMY 

Is played by two players, each having a Dummy or 
exposed hand for his partner. The laws of the game 
do not differ from Dummy Whist, except in the 
following special law: There is no misdeal, as the 
deal is a disadvantage. 

* i.e.. Dummy's hand. If Dummy's partner revokes, he is liable 
to the usual penalties. 

t And the liand proceeds as though the revoke had not been dis- 
covered. 



